Así era el Penal del Topo Chico



El patio principal

Un perro hurga entre bolsas de basura. Decenas de palomas están paradas los cables de luz y a veces bajan a picotear el concreto y las migajas que algún custodio les avienta. Es la entrada del Centro Penitenciario del Topo Chico, en Monterrey, a menos de 7 kilómetros del centro de la Ciudad. Nuestra camioneta pasó un breve filtro de seguridad y nos estacionamos. Nos invitaron a transmitir Charros vs Gángsters, y según sé, es la primera vez que se hace un programa radiofónico desde un penal.

Al bajar de la camioneta me doy cuenta que hay muchos elementos de seguridad y armas largas. Uno de los perritos me sigue. Un gato café juega con una cucaracha muerta y sale huyendo cuando paso junto a él.

***

Este penal está cerrado desde octubre de este año. No del todo, hay que decir: todavía hay algunos internos que tienen que cumplir su orden judicial y vienen con su abogado. De lejos, alcancé a ver a algunos. Según me cuentan, el cierre del Penal fue un plan secreto de El Bronco, para reubicar a los internos que ya habían tomado control del lugar. Este era un pueblo sin ley, autogobernado, en poder de los cárteles de la droga. ¿Cómo lograron sacarlos a todos? La persona que me cuenta esto dice que al cierre del lugar había cerca de 6000 reos.

Al Bronco se le ocurrió distraer la atención de la gente para que se pudieran hacer los preparativos. Se lanzó a la presidencia de la República. Nosotros caímos redonditos: mientras el año pasado todos nos burlábamos de la mano mochada, en secreto se trabajaba en el cierre del Penal. Cabrón.

Uno de los investigadores del lugar nos recibió en la entrada. Para pasar, hay varias paredes de metal y luego un pequeño recibidor, que es donde fichaban a los reos. El último respiro de libertad. Una mesa larga y vieja en donde les quitaban sus cosas. En esa misma área, del lado izquierdo, se encuentra el lugar de las visitas.

Aquí los fichaban y es donde entregaban sus pertenencias

De ahí, dos rejas más y entras al patio general.

Según supe, este Penal no estaba tan mal. Había una sobrepoblación de reos, pero moderada. Todo aumentó en los años del Calderón, en el que comenzaron a meter más y más personas. Los talleres en donde hacía carpintería y aprendían oficios fueron deshabilitados y utilizados como celdas. Las pequeñas crujías en donde cabían tres internos, fueron ocupadas por cinco o siete. Todos estaban amontonados.

Perder el control de esto fue inevitable. Cuando comenzaron a entrar los grandes capos de la droga al lugar impusieron su propia ley. De hecho, había zonas en las que los custodios ya no podían pasar: se cuenta que algunos de los internos salían por la noche, en total impunidad, a hacer su desmadre y regresaban por la mañana al Penal, que ya servía como centro de operaciones.

La cancha de básquet. Al fondo, las celdas.
El patio central es amplio. Del lado derecho se pueden ver los pequeños cuartitos que servían para las visitas conyugales. A pesar de que ya está limpio, huele a insecticida y a los químicos que se usaron para desinfectar. Muchas pequeñas moscas y mosquitos revolotean y en seguida comencé a sentir picazón en la piel. Nuestra visita fue seguida siempre de cerca por un policía que traía un arma larga.

Al fondo del patio está un teatro en donde se oficiaban algunas misas y se proyectaban películas los jueves. Por dentro, los asientos son de concreto con el respaldo de hule espuma, que está desgarrado. El techo se cae a pedazos. Junto al teatro hay una pequeña farmacia y los servicios médicos.

En sus buenos tiempos, si es que los hubo, los reos se levantaban a las cuatro de la mañana y de ahí se iban a hacer algunas actividades. Los mejores recibían un sueldo de 76 pesos al día, que les servían para comprar cosas en las múltiples tiendas que hay en su interior.

Una de las loncherías.

Hay muchas tiendas: vendían de todo, desde licuados, botanas, postres, gorditas, quesadillas y en uno de los patios vi una Marisquería, que ofrecía cocteles de camarón, pescado a la plancha y platillos para 2 a 4 personas. Antes cada reo recibía su comida, que no era buena, pero era gratis. Luego, tuvieron que pagar por todo.

Me pregunto porqué los pequeños botaneros se llaman "Fayukas".

El paisaje es desolador. El Penal cubre varias hectáreas, aunque una parte está cerrada ahorita porque están buscando cuerpos enterrados. Los trabajos de remodelación están parados, ya que pretendían meter máquinas, pero por la búsqueda de cadáveres se hace con pico y pala. Cuando salieron los últimos reos, la cantidad de basura y cosas que sacaron requirió un ejército de personas: llevan 76 toneladas de basura y las que faltan. En los colchones encontraron escondidas armas, pistolas, cuchillos y objetos punzocortantes de fabricación casera. Saqué unas fotos de eso:

Arma encontrada dentro de un colchón.

Toda clase de cuchillos.

No es nada bonito. No tiene nada que ver con películas ni series de televisión. Todo es feo, con cables salidos de la pared, objetos arrancados a fuerza, basura, plafones destruidos. Un mosco me picó el brazo y me hizo una roncha de un centímetro. Algunos lugares están clausurados con sellos y el letrero de "área contaminada". Uno de ellos es el pabellón de enfermos terminales, una pequeña construcción en donde metían a los reos que tenían VIH o tuberculosis. De ahí no se salía jamás: la comida se les daba por medio de cubos y permanecían en su interior. Esta área, me contaron, tenía gusanos blancos en el piso cuando entraron a desinfectar.

Aquí era donde estaban los enfermos 

El área de enfermos está junto al patio central, que seguramente han visto en las escenas de motines. Antes tenía una pista de atletismo, que ya no se utilizaba. De hecho, me contaron, en la mañana se abrían todos los patios y los internos deambulaban por todos lados, con libertad. En los últimos años había una separación, provocada por los bandos de los cárteles.

Cuando se cerró el lugar el primero de octubre, la gente que entraba aquí salía con dolores de cabeza y sintiéndose mal. Las autoridades decidieron hacer misas, de todas las religiones, para limpiar de malas vibras. Aunque la mayoría de ellos eran católicos también había cristianos, evangelistas, santeros y adoradores, por supuesto, de la Santa Muerte que tenían su pequeña capilla.

Capillita de la Santa Muerte

Yo como no creo en nada, pedí que me dejaran pasar, pero había candado :(

Llama mucho la atención que había pequeños bares en el interior. Junto a la capilla de la Santa Muerte hay uno en especial que te ofrecía clamatos, desarmadores, piña colada, bombas, cubas y campechanas. ¿Cómo hacían para pasar tantas cosas? Bueno, no es tan raro.

Los reos que no tenían dinero se hacinaban en las celdas. Pero los capos tenían áreas especiales con jacuzzi, barberías, cuerpo de seguridad propio, cámaras de vigilancia y en donde nadie podía entrar. Las celdas, que antes se cerraban por fuera y que eran abiertas por los custodios, fueron modificadas para que se cerraran ¡por dentro! Los propios reos se encerraban por las noches. Así estaría de ruda la situación.

El bar

En serio que uno piensa "jamás jamás jamás jamás en la vida quiero caer aquí". JAMÁS. Uno de nuestros acompañantes nos decía que las cosas que se vivían eran espeluznantes. JAMÁS caer en la cárcel.

Después del patio estaba la iglesia católica, la única zona que vi que estaba decente. Toda muy arreglada y limpia. Junto a ella, un pasillo largo en donde en algún tiempo había teléfonos que funcionaban con tarjeta. Hoy, arrancados, solo quedan los huecos sin pintar y los cables sueltos. También había una lonchería llamada "Los insectos", con una pequeña cucarachita como imagen. Esa área está cerrada para su desinfección. Huele a cloro y a insecticida, tan penetrante que tienes que voltear la cabeza.

Uno de los edificios de celdas

Las celdas, propiamente, tienen tres literas de concreto cada una. En las puertas estaban pegados cartones. Son pequeñas, de 2 metros por 3, calculo yo. La foto de arriba es un poco engañosa, ya que son oscuras, la luz entra por las pequeñas ventanas. Como les decía, se cierran por dentro y al final del pasillo están los baños. Baños que son tan sucios, pero tan sucios que de solo entrar ahí te da escalofríos.

El baño

Antes de entrar a las celdas hay un área de videojuegos ¿? y un pequeño desayunador donde podías comprar, por 25 pesos, un agua de papaya o plátano. Si querías un licuado, te costaba 30 pesos. También había hígado encebollado, fajitas de pollo, entomatadas, flautas, "buevitos" y agua de bolsa de a dos por cinco pesos. Pizzas de peperonni y hawaianas, recién hechas.

Otra vista del baño


***
La historia cuenta que una vez entró aquí un panadero que enseñó el oficio a los reos. Como fue una cosa muy apreciada, se hizo un lugar especial para la panadería. Ahorita sigo contando esto.

Deben saber que este Penal antes estaba alejado de la ciudad y luego fue devorado por la urbe. Para llegar a él, tenías que caminar por terracería. Su lejanía hizo que las mujeres y los hombres fueran encerrados en el mismo terreno, pero en áreas separadas. Hay una barda que separaba ambos sexos.

Bueno: la panadería se puso junto a esta barda. Era amplia, con hornos y mezcladoras. Una pinta con el Salmo 91 estaba en el lugar donde se repartía el pan. Por su localización, los capos hicieron ahí un túnel secreto que conectaba con el área de mujeres. Y sí: eran obligadas a prostiuirse, pasándolas de un área a otra, metiéndolas en un tambo y subiéndolas en un diablito al que llamaban "El Uber". Muchas de ellas eran amenazadas y para no molestar a sus familiares en el exterior, eran obligadas a tener sexo. En la siguiente foto está uno de los diablitos :(

Todavía se ven costales de harina.


Doloroso. Triste. No hay otra manera de describir esto.

Junto a la panadería estaba un pequeño patio en donde los reos esperaban a sus visitas. Solo el 30 por ciento de los internos tenían a alguien que los visitara del exterior. Las visitas eran revisadas exhaustivamente en un pequeño cuartito sin más privacidad que un bajo muro de metro y medio de altura. De ahí los pasaban a unas bancas a esperar a que llamaran a su familiar.

Cada visita duraba máximo, 15 minutos. Cuando veían a su familiar, muchos de ellos lo tomaban de la mano los pocos minutos que tenían y luego eran separados.

El área de visitas, del lado de los reos.

Esos barrotes eran el único contacto que muchos tenían con el exterior : /

***
Todo es horrible. En serio. Es horrible. Si entrar en una cárcel es la peor experiencia que le puede pasar a alguien, entrar a una cárcel que era controlada por el crimen es angustiante. En las paredes hay pintas con la virgen de Guadalupe o con el nombre de Jesús. Ayer platicaba con una amiga que no hay nada bonito aquí. El director del Penal me contaba que planea hacerse un parque que sirva como recordatorio de los malos tiempos.

Pero lo peor de lo peor, es que no quedó en el pasado. La misma situación se vive día a día en diversos penales del país. No es algo que haya pasado. Tal vez Topo Chico se vea como una cosa lejana, pero lo cierto es que los reclusorios de nuestro país no son nada diferentes a este lugar.

En serio, uno solo piensa en no caer en un lugar así.

Para despedirme, les dejo más fotos:

El interior del teatro. Las dos mujeres que se ven ahí eran parte del gobierno que nos acompañó.

Uno de los comedores

La Iglesia Católica

¡Trompo de pastor!


Esta área está contaminada, pero como soy bien chismoso, saqué foto.

Comentarios

  1. Leo éste blog literalmente desde que iniciaste, aunque nunca comento, no dejes de escribir, éste es de mis post favoritos. Gracias Memo!

    ResponderEliminar
  2. Excelente crónica, Memo. Es impactante todo lo que describes, vaya, te imaginas cosas pero ya con tus fotos y tu texto, medio puedes visualizar algo de lo terrible que era ese lugar. Y bien dices, todas las cárceles del País tienen los mismos problemas, tal vez de otro modo y a menor escala.

    (Un familiar cayó preso por temas administrativos y pasó poco más de un año en el Cereso de Tula. Al lado de lo que describes, aquel me parece un kinder).

    Saludos Memo.

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  3. Que triste situación e impactante.
    Ya estaba esperando este post.
    Gracias Memo por seguir escribiendo.

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  4. wow
    impactante todo
    me encato el post :)

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  5. No entiendo porque la última área estaba contaminada, si era un restaurante y seguía funcionando hasta poco antes de que los trasladaran a otro lado

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